Restaurants that
Represent the Essence
of Charleston and the SC Lowcountry
(see
below for full restaurant guide)
|
The following
excerpt is from Complete Charleston—A
Guide to the Architecture">
Restaurants that
Represent the Essence (see
below for full restaurant guide) The following
excerpt is from Complete Charleston—A
Guide to the Architecture">
Restaurants that
Represent the Essence (see
below for full restaurant guide) The following
excerpt is from Complete Charleston—A
Guide to the Architecture">
Restaurants that
Represent the Essence (see
below for full restaurant guide) The following
excerpt is from Complete Charleston—A
Guide to the Architecture, History & Gardens of Charleston and the
Low Country by Margaret Moore, illustrated with over 400 photographs
by Truman Moore. In a
recent article on Charleston, InStyle
Magazine mentioned only one book
on Charleston. They called Complete
Charleston essential. RESTAURANTS
PECAN PIE, HUSH PUPPIES AND FOIE GRAS
Eating well is a Charleston tradition. As early as 1745, visitors
marveled at feasts prepared for them in Charleston homes. Bostonian
Josiah Quincy wrote in 1773 of his pleasure at a “most elegant
table” in the Miles Brewton house with “the richest wine I ever
tasted.” Puritan influences inhibited cooking in New England.
Charlestonians, on the other hand, sought to emulate the aristocratic
social life enjoyed on their extensive travels in Europe. Lavish dining
was a mark of high status in Charleston.
Influences from the
Caribbean, France, Spain, Great Britain, Africa and the Orient converged
to create a unique cuisine. In part, the traditional food of Charleston
might be considered a forerunner of the now trendy “fusion” cooking.
Culinary historian John Martin Taylor (Lowcountry Cooking, The New
Southern Cook) believes Charleston may be the first place in America to
have developed a regional cuisine. Taylor has also pointed out that
young salad greens, now known as mesclun, were staples in Charleston’s
colonial kitchen gardens. He notes, too, that stone-ground grits, garlic
and the finest olive oils were also early staples just as they have
again become.
The African contribution was
particularly significant. “It was the African presence,” states
Karen Hess (The Carolina Rice Kitchen), “that accounted for the near
mythic reputation of Southern cooking.” One of the most famous local
dishes is the she crab soup created by William Deas, who was a butler
for Mayor Robert Goodwin Rhett. In Two Hundred Years of Charleston
Cooking of 1930, Deas was described as, “one of the greatest cooks in
the world.”
As in modern “fusion”
cooking, foreign culinary techniques were applied to local ingredients
and exotic imports. Charleston being a port city, benne seeds from
Sierra Leone, Jordanian almonds, port and madeira were staples in early
local kitchens. Henry Laurens, eminent patriot and statesman who had
been imprisoned in London during the Revolution and released in exchange
for Lord Cornwallis, was also seriously into gardening and good food.
Laurens introduced the city to olives, capers, limes, ginger, French
grapes, plums and pears in his four-acre Ansonborough garden. The Duke
of Saxe-Weimar, visiting in 1826, was astonished by “the most
beautiful tropical fruit.”
But the 20th century brought
some bleak dining years for Charleston visitors. According to a travel
writer of 1939, travelers engaged in “a frantic search for civilized
food, winding up in a chain drugstore.” A visitor of 1947 noted that
“the great cooking of Charleston has always been private, although
there are tales of the old Planters Hotel and Mansion House.” CHARLESTON
BECAME A FOODIE MECCA IN THE 1990s
In 1992 a travel writer
observed that “eating out in restaurants is a somewhat new trend in
Charleston.” Craig Claiborne, the late noted food critic, wrote later
that same year that “Charleston boasts more restaurants per capita
than any city in America. And it has clearly earned preeminence as one
of the great restaurant cities in the south. The old world ambiance
combined with fresh local ingredients and even fresher ideas from
resident chefs and gastronomes, makes dining an irresistible affair.”
The decade proceeded into a feeding frenzy.
Food critics and their
followers flocked here. The city became famous as a center of New
Southern cuisine. Savvy foodies began to visit on a regular basis, not
only to feast their eyes on Charleston’s Palladian splendor, but also
to experience the cuisine of the city’s famous restaurants. Southern
Living singled out Charleston Grill, Anson, Jestine’s and
Peninsula Grill. USA Today’s food critic recommended Fulton Five, Jestine’s,
Charleston Grill, Peninsula Grill and SNOB. R. W. Apple, Jr.
of The New York Times deemed the breakfast at Hominy Grill “one of the
best in America”. Food critic John Mariani wrote in Esquire Magazine
(12/99) that, “What with Louis’s, the Peninsula Grill and Hank’s
all opening in Charleston within the past three years, this impeccably
maintained historic small city now ranks as a bellwether of good taste
in America.”
Charleston menus also
feature such delicious New Southern creations as collard-green egg rolls
with tasso, red pepper puree and peach chutney. Local fish is enhanced
with hoisin/ginger sauce and mac’ and cheese is infused with lobster
and crab or truffles. Foie gras may be served with a hush puppy,
caramelized figs and a whipped pomegranate cream.
New York Times food critic
William Grimes noted in the spring of 2000 that, “It would be hard to
think of another American city of the same size -- Charleston has a
population of less than 100,000 -- with a more dynamic, promising
restaurant scene.” Grimes favorably reviewed his meals in High
Cotton,
Charleston Grill, SNOB, Blossom Cafe, and Peninsula Grill. Food critics
Mat and Ted Lee, who had grown up in Charleston, returned to their
hometown and exuded in Food and Wine (6/2000) over the culinary
transformation -- “Charleston finally has the restaurants it
deserves.” The Lees praised the big-city sophistication of the new
McCrady’s, the rabbit sausage over stone-ground grits at High Cotton,
the seafood at Hank’s and such astonishing creations as the venison
carpaccio with vanilla-onion ice cream at Circa 1886.
Some twelve restaurants in
the Historic District (plus two nearby) feature chefs who have been
honored by the prestigious James Beard Foundation in New York (as
compared with only seven in the whole state of North Carolina and two in
Savannah).
The James Beard Foundation
was the brainchild of America’s much loved chef Julia Child who
suggested, after Beard’s death in 1985, that his townhouse in New York
be preserved as a gathering place, fostering and celebrating culinary
excellence in America. “The Beard House is like having Beethoven’s
house as a center for musicians, because Beard is as important to food
people as Beethoven is to the music world,” she said. Beard began to
write for Gourmet Magazine in 1942 and by the 1950s, he was considered
the dean of American cooking. Foundation awards are the “Oscars of the
food world.” In addition to awards, every month the Foundation invites
talented chefs to prepare dinners at the James Beard House. Charleston
is fortunate that so many of its local chefs have received this honor.
It is the culinary equivalent of a debut at Carnegie Hall. CULINARY
TOURISM -- DON’T MISS THESE STARS
You will surely want to
taste the creations of these local chefs who have taken their Charleston
expertise to the Beard townhouse in Greenwich Village and who have been
lauded by the sophisticated palates of the New York food community:
Donald Barickman (chef of Magnolias, Blossom Cafe and Cypress), Bob Waggoner (Charleston Grill), Frank McMahon
(honored while at Elliott’s, now at Hank’s), Robert Carter
(Peninsula Grill), Frank Lee (SNOB, High Cotton), John Olsson (honored
while chef of Le Plumet Royal, Princeton, now at Meritage), Brett Maynard (Fulton Five) and Michael Kramer (McCrady’s).
But even the James Beard Foundation has not discovered all the talent.
The kitchens of Michael Lata (Anson), Frank Ramsey (Circa 1886), and
Robert Stehling (Hominy Grill) are producing memorable meals and
receiving national attention.
Scholars are taking food
seriously, examining the new field of culinary tourism. Lucy M. Long
(Southern Folklore, 1998) observed that food is central to the touristic
experience, that “culinary tourism utilizes the senses of taste,
smell, touch and vision and offers a deeper, more integrated level of
experiencing” another place. So you can intellectually rationalize
those delicious calories as serious research, serious touring. Leslie
Brenner analyzes the food revolution in American Appetite and the
phenomenon of chic food and celebrity chefs, noting that “one reaches
the ultimate level of sophistication if one knows restaurants in cities
other than one’s own.” The word is certainly out about Charleston as
a gastronomic center of the South. The better Charleston restaurants
report that they have regulars who visit from Atlanta, Charlotte and New
York. ONE HUNDRED
RESTAURANTS IN THE HISTORIC DISTRICT
The pedestrian-friendly
streets of Charleston, lined with beautiful classical buildings and the
concentration of so many fine restaurants within walking distance of
each other makes the city especially attractive to serious foodies. Many
restaurants have the added charm of being located in buildings built
nearly two centuries ago. The old warehouse district along East Bay has
become a restaurant row. As you experience the incredible architecture
of the city, you can also read menus and plan meals in advance. And
after dinner, the magic of the evening persists -- you can stroll
leisurely back to your hotel room, continuing to enjoy the historicity
and architectural treasures of the city. No need for expensive taxis,
designated drivers. There are over l00 restaurants in the historic
district. This dense concentration makes Charleston unique among other
food cities such as New Orleans or San Francisco. Most are locally
owned; many chef owned. This and a growing emphasis on fresh local
ingredients encourages high culinary standards. Menus have begun to
credit local farmers for organic and heirloom produce. GRITS,
BEIGNETS AND BAGELS
Two of the brightest talents
on the breakfast scene are Robert Stehling of Hominy Grill for
traditional Low Country/New Southern cuisine and Joseph Passarini of
Joseph’s if you crave beignets, awesome French toast and creative egg
dishes. Both restaurants do outstanding brunches. Be sure to allow time
for a leisurely lavish Sunday brunch. Historically, breakfast was a
substantial meal in Charleston. Sunday brunch is also served at Baker’s Cafe, Blossom Cafe, Bookstore Cafe,
Jestine’s, Magnolias, Mistral, Sermet’s and Vickery’s. Bagel
cravings may be satisfied at Cafe Cafe, Cafe Cynthia, Diana’s and Port
City Java. Breakfasts also at Elliott’s,
Palmetto Cafe (with grand buffets Saturday and Sunday), Baker’s Cafe,
Bookstore Cafe, Fast and French and Normandy Farm Artisan Bakery. On
Saturdays, from April to October, it is great fun to breakfast at the
Farmers Market on Hutson Street (8am-1pm), just off King Street. IF YOU ARE GOING ON A
SIDE TRIP AND NEED A PICNIC
You can order elaborate
picnics from Palmetto Cafe and pick them up as early as 6:30 am, when
the Cafe opens for breakfast. Interesting sandwiches and salads are
available from a number of restaurants which open early -- your picnic
can be prepared for you while you have breakfast, though it could save
time to order it a day ahead: Cafe Cafe, Cafe Cynthia, Fast &
French, Diana’s, Normandy Farm and Port City Java. And don’t forget
the Farmers Market and Burbage’s Grocery. THE THREE
O’CLOCK DINNER
It was the custom in
Charleston, in pre-air conditioning days, to have dinner at three
o’clock. A book with the same title by Josephine Pinckney describes
these more gracious leisurely days. In fact, eating a major mid-day meal
makes very good sense in these calorie-conscious times, as you can walk
off the calories after. If you are visiting Charleston in the summer, it
is particularly pleasant to linger over a lengthy meal at midday and
walk about the city in the late afternoon. SNOB,
Sermet’s, Joseph’s and
Beaumont’s (weekends only) serve until three. A few restaurants
produce serious meals all day: 39 Rue de Jean, Blossom Cafe, Jestine’s,
Magnolias, Mistral, and Vickery’s. DON’T BE
AFRAID OF HOTEL RESTAURANTS
There was a time when hotel
restaurant food was certain to be mediocre. That is changing. The James
Beard Foundation, dedicated to improving the quality of American
cuisine, now presents awards to chefs of hotel restaurants who create
serious sophisticated food. Charleston
Place chef, Bob Waggoner of Charleston Grill, cooked at the James Beard
House in 1999 as a Great Hotel Chef and was also honored as one of the
“Rising Stars of the 21st Century” among chefs under 40. Chef Robert
Carter of Peninsula Grill (at the Planter’s Inn) was a Beard
Foundation honoree in 1997. And Circa 1886, which is just being discovered by serious
foodies, is part of the Wentworth Mansion, also locally owned. FEASTING AS
YOU STROLL
One of the great pleasures
of Charleston is that you are never far from a restaurant that is open
and serving fabulous food. It is a pleasure cherished by local residents
and particularly important for visitors, as it is impossible to
calculate how long a tour of a house museum or a walk through a
neighborhood will take. In some cities, the finest restaurants tend to
maintain rigidly conventional hours -- Le Bernardin in New York, for
instance, does not open a second before noon. But here in Charleston,
you will find it much more relaxed with hours hospitably geared to
visitors and to children who might need a snack or a cool drink between
usual meal times. Some excellent restaurants serve non-stop all day.
Chef/owner Donald Barickman of Magnolias explained, “Charleston is the
kind of town where people aren’t looking at their watch all day long.
We want to be there when they need us.” So when you need that break
from strolling through the eleven neighborhoods of Charleston’s
extraordinary historic district, when the Palladian grandeur and
glorious gardens have overwhelmed your senses, let this be an
opportunity to sample the food of a nationally-acclaimed chef. The
appetizer and salad sections of the best menus offer an astonishing
array of temptations, often large enough so that one or two make a meal.
Dessert menus feature sinfully delicious creations. Southerners love
sweet foods, even add sugar to some vegetables. Forget about dieting.
Our coffee break suggestions include convenient places in the
neighborhoods, ranging from corner grocery stores to meccas of haute
cuisine. But wherever you are in the historic district, it is but a
short walk to nationally-acclaimed kitchens.
Over on
East Bay, you can pop into Magnolias all day long to sample housemaid
potato chips with blue cheese and scallions, the seared yellow grits
cake, or the Down South egg roll (do not leave Charleston without
tasting this). Also on East Bay is SNOB (lunch until 3, dinner at 5:30)
The menu varies, but you might find quail or shitake mushrooms with foie
gras mousse and spinach on it, and High Cotton, opening at 5:30, with
such possibilities as a terrine of foie gras or beer battered onion
rings.
On Market Street, Peninsula Grill opens at 5:30pm--feast away
on wild mushroom grits, seared carpaccio of lamb, foie gras with
Carolina peach jam and duck BBQ biscuit, fried oysters with a mango
coulis. Further south, in the French Quarter, McCrady’s begins serving
at 5:30pm, such creations as a corn risotto with truffle oil, an
Asian-influenced tuna tar tare and foie gras with a duck confit crepe.
If you are near Calhoun
Street, head for 39 Rue de Jean, 39
John Street, serves
delicious French bistro food all day.
If
you’ve just enjoyed the Greek Revival grandeur of Ansonborough and it
is 5:30, you could recharge over the calamari with apricot sauce and the
organic salad creations at Anson. THE SIMPLE
MEAL
There are times when you
need a break from foie gras and elaborate creations. Charleston has a
wealth of locally-owned, modest but excellent, charming little
restaurants where you can have a light meal in a casual ambiance without
spending a fortune. Chain restaurants do not thrive in a city that
attracts so many culinary sophisticates and where local residents demand
high standards. Hamburgers and good club sandwiches are readily
available, however, while in Charleston, you might find it more fun to
lunch on a crab burger or a BST (bacon-salmon-tomato). Charleston’s
chefs express their creativity even at lunch, a meal many chefs neglect.
Nowhere is this more apparent than at Joseph’s, which offers
breakfast, lunch and dinner. Do try the crab cakes, the fried
oysters with fried green tomatoes(on Sunday), New Orleans po’boy with
local shrimp, roast beef with roasted peppers and balsamic syrup or
mozzarella on a croissant and, of course, the BSTs. You can watch Chef
Passarini perform in the open kitchen.
Other favorites of ours are
Cafe Cynthia, Bookstore
Cafe, Hominy Grill, Blossom Cafe, Fast and French, Vickery’s, Sermet’s and Mistral, which we love for the cozy
ambiance as well as the salade Nicoise and orange mahi sandwiches.
For families on a budget and
those traveling with several children who are clamoring for hamburgers,
a local favorite is Kaspers. This is a very modest place, serving
delicious hamburgers on paper plates. You’ll certainly find more local
flavor here than driving to the suburbs to a chain restaurant, and your
kids can relax in the casual atmosphere. Another locally popular
hamburger place, also serving such American classics as BLTs and roast
beef sandwiches, is Jack’s Cafe, also modest and inexpensive. Very
popular with College of Charleston students. BEYOND
HAMBURGERS: CHILD-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS
Charleston’s famed
hospitality extends well into the kitchens of the city’s most upscale
restaurants. Children will find themselves being pampered by celebrity
chefs, many of whom will produce hot dogs, hamburgers and such while
preparing foie gras extravaganzas for their parents.
Timing is everything. The
best time to dine with children at Charleston’s finest restaurants is
early. Go when the restaurant opens, and you are more likely to get
special service. High chairs and boosters are readily available. Some
restaurants features items for children or can honor requests. Side
dishes often include foods children like. Anson always has pizza and
pastas on the menu, can often accommodate special requests. High Cotton
recommends its side dishes such as onion rings and the potato casserole.
Hank’s offers chicken fingers. Grilled cheese
sandwiches might be produced at SNOB. Bob Waggoner of Charleston Grill
is especially pleased to welcome children. Waggoner says he was never
served lamb as a child and believes it is an important part of a
child’s education to introduce them to restaurant foods they don’t
get at home everyday. He’s noticed that when strangers are offering
children new foods and asking how they like it, children often become
more adventurous. But he promises to produce chicken fingers if
necessary. There are also a few kitchens that stay open all afternoon;
some serve lunch until three; some open for dinner as early as 5. With
small children in tow and parents in search of a serious meal, we
particularly recommend Anson, Blossom Cafe,
Boathouse, Charleston Grill, Elliott’s, Hank’s, High Cotton, Hominy
Grill, Jestine’s, Magnolias, Mistral, McCrady’s, Palmetto Cafe, Peninsula Grill and
SNOB. BON APPETIT In our book , we
describe 50 personal favorites, among the many historic district
restaurants. This is not by any means an encyclopedic survey. As locals,
we prefer restaurants that are not touristy and not noisy. We lived for
many years in James Beard’s neighborhood in New York City, which had
New York’s best food markets during the 1980s and a cluster of
excellent restaurants, including The Coach House (where Beard was a
regular) and La Tulipe (our favorite). Having experienced the food
revolution there, it has been very exciting to watch the culinary
transformation of Charleston. Local Charleston chefs have become
obsessed with ingredients, maintain restaurant herb gardens, get regular
deliveries from Wadmalaw farmers, import such delicacies as foie gras
and baby lobster tails. We regularly visit New York and are proud to
discover that Charleston’s restaurants are keeping pace with New
York’s finest and are producing creations and regional specialties
that are, in fact, unique.
In addition to all the New
Southern dishes, don’t leave town without tasting such traditional Low
Country specialties as crab cakes, she-crab soup, shrimp and grits,
shrimp pilau, fried chicken, red rice, artichoke relish, peach chutney,
hoppin’ John, okra, fried green tomatoes, pimiento cheese, fried
catfish, red pepper jelly, hush puppies, corn bread, collard greens,
yams, fresh local seafood, such as grouper, mahi mahi, shrimp and
oysters, Huguenot torte, benne wafers and pecan pie.
You may wish to sort this
list by location or by price
Full Listing:
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